Broccoli was in the spotlight at the American Institute for
Cancer Research’s recent annual conference, where global scientists shared
their findings on the connection between diet and cancer. Had the researchers
been giving out awards, broccoli’s baby sprouts, not just broccoli, would have
snatched gold.
How you prepare broccoli, though, is the key to its
cancer-fighting ability, said Elizabeth Jeffery, co-chair of one of the
conference’s sessions and a professor in the department of food science and
human nutrition at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign. Her latest
research could dramatically change your culinary habits.
Queen of the crucifers
You know the stinky smell that fills your kitchen when
you’re cooking broccoli? That’s because of healthy sulfur-filled compounds,
which exist in all crucifers. An enzyme in crucifers — marked by that kick you
get when you bite into a raw one — turns sulfurs into two cancer-fighting
categories:
– Indoles, which help break down hormones as well as target
a group of genes that promote prostate cancer. (The latter finding was reported
by Wayne State University scientist Fazlul Sarkar at the conference.)
– Isothiocyanates (pronounced eye-so-thigh-o-sigh-a-nates),
which counteract carcinogens in general and speed up their removal from the
body. (Of course, broccoli also has many more healthy compounds.)
Broccoli bears the crown of queen of the crucifers because
compared with other crucifers, it contains more of a particularly important
isothiocyanate called sulforaphane.
Because heat degrades the enzyme that produces sulforaphane,
many food scientists, until now, have recommended we eat crucifers raw or very
lightly cooked. In her recent broccoli research, however, Jeffery has developed
a more sophisticated approach to maximizing sulforaphane. Her work shows that
how you make the broccoli and what you pair it with are vital.
Tips on handling broccoli
To capitalize on sulforaphane, first cook broccoli lightly,
Jeffery said. Steam it in a little liquid for 3 to 4 minutes until bright
green, using a steamer so that it doesn’t touch the cooking liquid. Or blanch
it for 20 to 30 seconds, no more. Those methods are surprisingly better than
eating it raw, she said, because when the enzyme acts on broccoli’s
sulfur-containing compounds, the compounds can swing either way — and get turned
into sulforophanes, which fight cancer, or nitriles, which don’t. “Every
molecule of nitriles formed is a sulforaphane not formed,” Jeffery said. And
just a little heat will keep nitriles from forming.
To counteract the enzyme reduction caused by heating
Jefferey has a second suggestion:
Eat steamed broccoli along with a little raw crucifer —
arugula, watercress, a little wasabi or spicy mustard, or perhaps even better,
raw red radish. (The stronger the kick, the more enzyme you’re getting.) Red
radishes contain sulforaphane and don’t have the inherent ability to produce
nitriles. You don’t need much, Jeffery said — just two to three radishes or a ½
teaspoon of mustard or wasabi. And you don’t have to eat them in the same bite
as broccoli, just in the same meal.
Here’s the final and most liberating finding for those of us
chained to our kitchens: As long as you eat raw crucifers in the same meal, you
can go ahead and cook broccoli any way you want, Jeffery said. The enzymes in
the raw crucifers will act on compounds in the cooked ones.
These same suggestions apply to all crucifers that can
produce nitriles, she said — including cauliflower, most cabbages and
especially Brussels sprouts.
Why broccoli sprouts?
While President George H.W. Bush was banning broccoli on Air
Force One back in 1990, Johns Hopkins researcher Paul Talalay was busy
exploring the crucifer’s newborn sprouts. What, he wondered, was the ideal
number of days needed to germinate seeds to get the best sulforaphane content
as well as taste?
The answer: three days. He and his son went on to develop a
side business selling young broccoli sprouts. (Talalay, now 91, still
collaborates on research and goes to his lab almost every day.)
In contrast to mature broccoli, broccoli sprouts have, on
average, 20 times the amount of compounds that develop into sulforaphane, said
Yanyan Li, a professor of food science at Montclair State University who is
studying sulforaphane. Since the 1990s, researchers have been identifying
cancer stem cells in many types of cancer, and Li has recently found that
sulforaphane targets breast cancer stem cells at relatively low concentrations.
How much is enough?
To obtain that level of sulforaphane, however, you’d need to
eat several pounds of broccoli — or, Li suggested, just a heaping cup of raw
sprouts, lightly steamed and consumed along with a few raw radishes.
Sulforphane is eliminated from the body relatively quickly, she said, so
“eating them three times a day would be ideal to maintain the level.”
For the average person, that’s not really feasible, she
acknowledges, and scientists at the conference agreed that eating crucifers
four to five times a week is a reasonable goal for most — as long as you chew
the vegetables well. By breaking the cell walls, you’re releasing those pungent
enzymes.
Jeffery’s lab is now comparing the sulforaphane content in
common varieties of broccoli, but that research is not yet ready for prime
time.
Broccoli Sprout Salad With Synergy
(Recipe courtesy of Holly Botner, the Jittery Cook)
Serves 2
Ingredients
For the dressing:
½ lemon, juiced
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 clove garlic, minced
½ teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper to taste
For the broccoli sprout salad:
2 containers broccoli sprouts
4 red radishes, ½ thinly sliced, ½ julienned
1 handful baby arugula
½ carrot, cut into slivers with a peeler
¼ yellow pepper, finely chopped
1 orange, cut into segments as garnish
Directions
1. Combine all ingredients for the dressing and mix well.
2. Steam the sprouts until bright green, then cut off their
green tops to use in the salad.
3. Arrange salad ingredients on two small plates. Spoon
dressing lightly over salad.
Top photo: Broccoli sprout salad. Credit: Holly Botner /
jitterycook.com
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